A little summation of sorts

The 12 or so days that I spent in Stockholm for my godfather’s funeral and the subsequent logistics that had to be organised post-funeral, were actually rather good. My sister A flew in from LA, my mum from the south of France and me from London, all of us landing within an hour of each other. I remember seeing the moon while I queued at passport control; it was unbelievably huge and the sky a perfect gradient of colours, and it felt like Lasse had somehow commandeered the sky for it to be that beautiful at that very moment. Like a sign saying “Don’t worry, it’ll all work out.”. And you know, it really did. We experienced what felt like being in flow for the whole time we were there. Everything did just seem to work out. It was both little and big things that happened that made what could’ve been a really hard time relatively smooth. The car that my sis had rented wasn’t available, so we got an upgrade instead. Mum’s best friend, who was away for the time we were there, offered us her flat for us to stay in (what timing!), and there was a parking spot just outside the apartment block when we arrived (and almost every time we came back from somewhere). Or like texting my cousin at 7am the same morning as the funeral (I’d forgotten to let her know in the midst of it all what had happened - she’d grown up knowing him too), sending the details, in case she could make it. She could, as her office was only a 20 min drive away. Or how quickly I found a lawyer to deal with the will, and how she made everything that felt overwhelming a much easier thing to go through. Or how, after dinner at my other cousin’s place on the opposite side of town, the only local bus you could take, went all the way to the bus stop right by the flat we were staying in. Or how, when out on a walk with my mum, we bumped into the son-in-law of her friend who’s flat we were staying in, which resulted in us being invited over for lovely dinner with her friend’s daughter and grandchildren. We didn’t force anything, and just simply let each day take its own shape, and let ourselves be guided by what had to be done, keeping an open mind to whatever arose. We kept saying that Lasse was somehow giving us a helping hand, making it all easier, when it could’ve been the worst of times.

I hadn’t really cried until we went round to Lasse’s flat to try and make a start on tidying things up a bit. When we entered the scent of the it was exactly the same as when he lived there, and that’s when it really hit me. He was never coming back.

We found his jacket that he used to wear all the time, still holding the shape of his body within, even though he hadn’t worn it for years. As much as we hoped that it would fit one of us, it was simply too big. My dad has it now, as a memento.

On the day we saw him, while we were talking, it came up that he was asked if there was something he really fancied having, as a treat, just days before he died. He asked for an ice cream sandwich. So after our hour with him was up, we thought we’d buy some and give him a farewell toast in Kungsträdgården, the park in which we had spent endless hours with him when we all were younger. Here we are saying “Skål Lasse!” as we did so, although my sister H had to forgo the dairy with a hot drink instead. It felt right to do something so funny/eccentric, as it was so like him. I think I’ll go and do the same every time I go back to Stockholm. A little personal hello and a sweet moment of remembrance.

We also laughed when we realised that the day we’d gone to see him was Halloween. He would’ve loved to have known that.

I think it’s quite common that at the time when someone dies, you look for signs or imbue meaning in things, to feel that that person is still with you. When we arrived at the cemetery for the funeral there were two moose in the field next door, munching away, without a care in the world. I have NEVER seen wild moose in my life. What were the odds of seeing them just then and there? Surely this was the work of Lasse again?!

The burial itself was slightly surreal. We women had to stay behind for the whole ceremony as the imam and the men present said the funeral prayers. My dad had organised it all through his local mosque, and had also bussed in friends from around Stockholm for a proper send off. I thought it wonderful that my white Swedish godfather’s funeral was so multi-cultural, which really reflected on him and his life. He travelled extensively in Africa and Asia in the 60’s, so it made sense that this was how he was laid to rest.

As a result of the funeral I got to see and properly hang out with my mum, who I hadn't seen since 2019. No offence to my husband or son, but to just be a daughter/sister this time, and have time on my own with my family felt so special. Also, the last day, before the three of us who live elsewhere left, we realised that it was Lasse’s birthday. We picked up dad on the way and drove out to Lasse’s grave to sing him Happy Birthday, and that evening we went out for dinner, just me, mum, dad and my sister A. We realised that it was the first time we’d all sat down together for a meal, just the four of us, since my parents divorce in 1988. See? Another little helpful nudge 😉

I’ll never forget those two weeks, which in despite of everything, felt like a gift. In fact I know it was. Tack Guffar.

Elsewhere and at other times

I’m the sort of person that goes to bed on holiday with the camera next to me, in case I wake up in the morning and see something I want to take a picture of. You never know what you might wake up seeing.

Z and D having a little early morning chat. We were surprisingly fast for four people to get out of the house and on our way.

Tourist pic time!

A managed to prop her phone up on Z’s bike so we could all be in the picture - in front of the windmill. Came out really good!

I wanted to repeat the perfect Sunday (on a Sunday again - nice!) so off we cycled to Het Schoolhuis in Holysloot for some lunch.

Got the best table in the garden. Thanks Z for the pic :0)

After lunch we picked out a scenic spot and meditated together. One of my favourite memories of the whole trip.

We then went for a little walk in the ‘hood. D & A spotted

this guy, before we did.

Time to cycle back into town.

This man caught my eye, and clocked me taking his pic, and I made sure I smiled at him, because that’s what a polite person does. Makes for a nice shared moment rather than being a picture taking robot that just continues on without acknowledging the other person involved.

Had to stop and take another picture on Haarlemmerstraat, this time of this building that looked heavily influenced by Alphonse Mucha.

See what happens when you smile and take pictures of strangers? You get smiled at back.

Walking through Westerpark this caught my eye. Kudos to anyone who bothers to bring a hammock to a park.

Our destination? Rainarai of course. We tried to dent the massive portions as much as we could, and delicious as usual it was too. I know it looks like A is ‘gramming’ here, but she isn’t. Not everyone carries a big camera innit.

And on the way home we had to stop and get off our bikes to look at the incredible full moon. Alas, this lady doesn't travel with a zoom, but take my word for it, it was huge.

On the Monday morning the peonies that Z had bought had opened up; I’ve never seen peonies this colour in the UK.

This was the day that we went to the Rijks, and moseying around the Jordaan afterwards we had a nosy in this empty house. Some jammy sod must’ve moved in there by now.

While we’re looking at houses, let’s look at some more. These are at the edge of the Red Light district, in fact just around the corner from Ons Lieve Heer.

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Amsterdam by now, but I always do a little research before I go, and somewhere I came across pictures of this bar, In’t Aepjen. Amsterdam’s bruin cafés (pubs) have never really been on my radar before, but I remember walking past one that looked really cosy last time me and Oomoo where there (in fact the interior of it inspired me to get rid of our white walls at home), and thinking that I’d really like to go to one one day. Well, child free this time round we went, and lovely it was too. It was very small, but not packed and loud like a pub can be, and we tried some jenever for the first time, which gets served all the way to the top of the glass, like in the picture to the left. You then have to kind of bow into the glass to have your first sip. Fun!

D saying something… surprising/shocking? Whatever it was I missed out, but it was worth it. Love the reactions.

We only stayed for one drink, and this was what met us as we came out. ‘Hope for another life’ it says, according to Google Translate. Maybe that is what it says - but I don’t trust GT.

These guys obviously didn't stop at one drink. Maybe they were hoping for another life.

D, on the Eurostar, on the way home. So there you go, that was our girls’ trip to the Amsterdamsch, something we dreamt up last summer, when we saw A for the first time since all the lockdowns, and wanted to make up for lost time. Having this trip as something to look forward to, all the way back then, was invaluable. I hope we’ll do plenty more of them.

Oh dear Lord

On the morning of the same day that we took the train back to London, we went to Ons Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Dear Lord in the Attic), which I’m sure I’ve blogged about on the old blog, as me and Z have been there before. D is a bit of a church fan, not in a religious way, but in an old buildings way, so it made sense to take her and A to see what is my favourite random and less well known museum in Amsterdam. The Netherlands became a mainly Calvinist (protestant) country in the 1600’s, but still allowed Catholics to practice their form of Christianity, as long as they did so in secret. As a workaround lots of houses where converted into churches, and Ons Lieve was built in the attic of the wealthy merchant Jan Hartman in 1663. The rest of the house has also been turned into a museum, with historically correct decoration and furnishings.

And you guys know how much places like this excite me, don’t you? Places were I can drool at colour combinations and beautiful details.

Initially me and Z were not sure whether we wanted to go back to this place as it felt a bit ‘been there, done that’, but we were both so glad that we did. We could take it in in a completely different way, and it was actually really nice to not use the audio guide this time round, as it gave us the chance to look at everything again, without being steered of where to look.

I think I’m starting to have a thing for rooms with the walls covered in fabric. It just feels so cosy, and deadens sound perfectly. I’m not sure how practical it would be in real life, as the fabric must surely get very dusty, and will probably have to be professionally cleaned, because good luck with fitting the fabric in your washing machine and ironing it.

See what I mean? COSY. And I’m not sure why the Dutch use actual rugs as table cloths, but they used to, a lot. In fact on the last trip to Amsterdam we had lunch in a really quiet but cool café, where all the tables had rugs on them. Doesn’t strike me as very hygienic, but best not to think about it too much.

‘Know yourself’. How apt for a mirror.

And another thing I’m crushing on? Box beds. Same thing - super cosy. I think cosy is my most important feeling I want from an interior.

Our dear Z in the attic. Hallelujah.

As you climb the narrow stairs you finally arrive in the church part itself. Here’s D taking a picture of the altar, standing in the nave. Listen to me with all my church knowledge! Well, I’m about to finish a 10-week long online course on architectural history, which has been just awesome, but as hardly any secular buildings have survived that past couple of millennia, the course has mainly been about churches. So if you want to know about narthexes, apses, ambulatories, and clerestories, then I’m here yeah?

I eavesdropped on this guide showing a group of teenage girls around. She was so enthusiastic and engaging, she really had them paying attention. I also felt very proud of myself for understanding everything she said - in Dutch. I guess I’m blowing my own trumpet in this post, huh?.

Some sculptures near the part where the church organist would sit and play.

There were also some items of clothing dotted around the place.

I really dig the mustard colour of this priest’s robe.

Not sure the meaning of this (so I guess it’s time to put that trumpet away), but I’m sure it means something, seeing as a dove symbolises the holy spirit? Maybe it’s just trapped in the attic.

Z checking out the linen curtains; she’s actually ended up choosing very similar for her house.

Two angles of where the priest would sit in the confessional.

And Z on the side of the confessor.

D, matching the warmth of this room.

These Delft (Delft! Somewhere I really want to go one day) tiles are so nice, aren’t they?

And this one, shaped like a newel post (it was right next to a staircase). I know I say it a lot about places I’ve blogged about, but seriously, if you’re ever in Amsterdam, you HAVE TO check this place out. I’ve never seen anything like it, and my pictures don’t do it justice. I also find the juxtaposition of what it is and where it is - the Red Light District - quite amusing. I’m sure Jan Hartman would be turning in his grave if he knew.

Amsterdam - again

A few weeks ago me, and my friends D & A hopped on an early Saturday morning train to Amsterdam, to spend four excellent days with our beloved Z (we all worked together as graphic designers on a magazine a verrrrrry long time ago), in my home city from home. Neither D or A had been there properly, so the first thing on the list was to get them used to riding bikes, which they did quickly, in the quiet Noord neighbourhood.

We stopped for a delicious vegan lunch at Liever Hier in Nieuwendammerdijk, where we hands down had the best chocolate brownie either one of us had ever had. The view wasn’t bad either. Looking back at these pics I can see that we were very lucky with the weather (I’m typing this wearing heat tech and a thick fleece - in June).

The street that the café is on is almost 2km long, with a lovely mix of architecture. I think I’ll have to come back and walk it next time, so I can take more pictures of it.

Z had the smallest ladybird I’ve ever seen on her shoulder. I’m sure it’ll still give her lots of luck, despite it’s size.

Slowly making our way into town; you see a lot of this in Amsterdam, various ways of fitting your kids on a bike. I once saw someone cycle while holding a small baby in one arm, no sling or anything. Scary/skillz.

Pretty. Or ‘mooi’ - in Dutch.

Still in Noord, getting closer to the trendy end of it. Love the block of flats on the left. Why new builds in the UK can’t be this nice is beyond me. There’s just no inherent good taste in British architecture these days. I think it might have peaked in the Georgian era.

And these floating houses! Swoon. There’s a little neighbourhood of them, just in front of the block of flats in the previous pictures. Seeing the ladders going into the water makes my heart beat a bit faster.

When I go travelling I like to have a loose plan of what to do/see/eat, a bit of sketch if you like, with areas to visit but then keeping it flexible. It’s mainly to avoid the panic trying to find somewhere to eat when you’re dead tired and hungry, or making sure to not miss out on seeing a special place. Well, one of those special places for me in Noord is Van Dijk & Ko, a massive warehouse stuffed with second hand furniture, books and trinkets. The prices are ridiculous cheap too; some of the massive beautiful cupboards, including antique kitchen ones would cost up to six times as much in London. I hadn’t planned that we should cycle to it, but as it was on the way, we popped in.

D has a thing for antique linen and picked out some good ones.

There are also some weird stuff amongst all the goodness. Where do we think this would have been originally (minus the wig of course)?

I’ve been thinking recently how there are a whole generation of kids who mostly don’t know what a cuckoo clock is or what it does (these are the sort of things I think about - haha!). There would always be someone who had one when I was a kid. I was a tiny bit tempted to get one, but these were actually not that cheap, and who’s to say they still work?

If I had a different house style I would have got a few of these. Or if we had a second home.

Instead I got two old Hungarian ceramic bowls with crazy glazing on them.

Stop! Ferry time. Time to cross the IJ and cycle towards our dinner.

Love the mixture of the architecture here + the balustrade shadows.

Dinner at De Japanner has become a regular thing on the last few trips to Amsterdam. Incredible Japanese food that’s delicious in your mouth and kind on your wallet .

The street it’s on, Albert Cuypstraat, is a market street in the day time, and once it’s shut it’s quite a mess, which these herons have figured out, so they have quite a feast where the fishmonger trades.

And finally, catching some evening light on the ferry back home to Noord. Such a great first day of the trip.